The Mile End Cookbook: Redefining Jewish Comfort Food from Hash to Hamantaschen by Bernamoff Noah & Bernamoff Rae

Author:Bernamoff, Noah & Bernamoff, Rae [Bernamoff, Noah]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780307954497
Publisher: Crown Publishing Group
Published: 2012-09-04T00:00:00+00:00

BREAKFAST & BRUNCH

SANDWICHES & SALADS

MAINS, SOUPS & SIDES

BREADS

CAKES, COOKIES & SWEETS

THE BEAUTY (LOX ON A BAGEL)

THE MONT ROYAL (LOX ON LATKES)

SMOKED MEAT HASH

THE DELI MAN’S BREAKFAST (EGGS, SAUSAGE, BEANS)

VEAL & TURKEY BREAKFAST SAUSAGE

SMOKED WHITEFISH SALAD

MISH-MASH (EGG SCRAMBLE)

BLINTZES

APPLE TURNOVERS

BAGELACH

CINNAMON BUNS

TWICE-BAKED CHALLAH

THE BEAUTY

THE BEAUTY

Noah: Home cooking is the foundation for a lot of what we do at Mile End, but we also owe a big debt to Montreal’s Jewish restaurateurs. Of course there’s Ruth Wilensky, the Montreal lunch-counter owner after whom we named one of our most popular sandwiches, and there’s also Hyman “Beauty” Skolnick, the almost-as-old proprietor of Beauty’s Luncheonette, a seventy-year-old brunch spot at the edge of the city’s Parc du Mont-Royal. Last time Rae and I were there, Hyman was still there, too, perched near the door, pointing us to our seats.

They serve a superlative bagel sandwich at Beauty’s, so it seemed right to name our signature bagel special after them. The basic toppings—lox, cream cheese, tomato, and onion—are as familiar to a New Yorker as they are to a Montrealer. But our bagel is Montreal all the way: hand-rolled, parboiled in honey-sweetened water, dredged in sesame or poppy seeds, and finished in a wood-fired oven. They say Montreal bagels are like snowflakes: Every one is unique.

All of ours come from the legendary fifty-four-year-old wood-burning oven of Montreal’s St-Viateur Bagels. Every time I eat one, it sends me back. There’s nothing like eating a hot, chewy “white seed” from the top of the chute at 3 a.m. on a windswept Mile End sidewalk. That is bagel perfection. So is the Beauty.

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